Saturday 29 May 2010

Seiko Black Monster Review

As opposed to the usual array of luxury watches I review, I feel compelled to write down my thoughts on what I believe might just be the best value automatic diver's watch in the world. This is a watch that punches far above its weight, and makes similarly priced watches feel poor quality and overpriced by comparison. For me, the Monster is the new Diving Watch yardstick - I now compare all other divers to it.




Technical Features

*Model Ref: SKX779
*Stainless steel case
*Unidirectional rotating diving bezel w/ 60 minute graduations and glowing bezel pearl
*Case diameter: 42mm
*Black dial with Lumibrite baton markers, and luminous hands
*Screwdown crown @ 4 o'clock
*Hardlex Crystal
*200m Waterproofing

The Movement

In a nutshell, it's a non-hacking automatic movement with day and date complications - John Davis' review here is an authoritative walkthrough of the movement, and describes it much better than I could. In terms of accuracy, it's not too bad - mine gains roughly 8 seconds per day

UK RRP: Not sold here, eBay prices tend to lie around £150-180.

The Aesthetics

There's no denying the fact that this is a bold watch - but it does so in a way that befits it's purpose as a serious diver's watch. This watch looks purposeful, honest in its intentions, and I can only admire that in a watch. It's substantial without being overly thick, and sits well on the wrist. Simplicity in the dial, and a large, legible bezel makes it practical for every day use, particularly at night. I can't compliment enough the lume on this watch - it blows anything I've seen personally out of the water. Rolex and Omega are improving their lumes, but for intensity and longevity, no non-radiactive paint compounds can compare. It takes very little to charge it, and even on low light exposure, it can store enough power to be legible in the dark for several hours.

The bracelet is nicely finished - mainly brushed with polished highlights, and it's not trying to imitate another brand, which is always an issue at this price point. It's a little fiddly to adjust, but nothing impossible by any means. The clasp is also very impressive - a foldover push button deployment with a locking clip makes for a very solid and secure fit. However, it should be noted that I have had some problems with the locking clip popping open under stress, though the rest of the clasp remains secure - I believe this is because I need to loosen the clasp a little on account of the warmer weather, so this is by no means a major problem



The Feel

As some of you may have worked out by now, I like a substantial watch. This doesn't disappoint - the bracelet links are solid, and they don't skimp on the construction of the case. It's not as heavy as a Deepsea, for example, but it lies at a similar weight, at a guess, as a Seamaster 300m. When properly adjusted, it sits securely on the wrist, and is best with a little movement from the head. I haven't got the world's largest wrists (usually need 1 or 2 links out of most watches), but it doesn't look oversized at all. I think this can be partially attributed to the large bezel, which reduces the dial size to a reasonable level. This certainly doesn't feel as flimsy as a lot of watches at this price point, and I'd argue feels nicer than a lot of watches worth 10 or even 20 times more. It really is an understated hero, and it's a shame that more people don't know about it.

Practicality

I see this as a great daily beater. You can wear it with confidence, and treat it with as little respect as you want, and it'll still keep ticking. Certainly a good idea if you don't want you multiple thousand pound watch getting messed up too badly. Not one for wearing with a suit, but for just about anything else, it'll do its job admirably

Conclusion

I really love this watch, it has so much to offer for such a small price. It having an automatic movement is, for many WISes, a notable plus point, and I feel it is a breath of fresh air from the soulless quartz watches that dominate this segment of the market. Unique styling is a major benefit, and I also see it as a conversation starter. It's eyecatching in a good way, and it has the engineering quality to back it up as well. If you are looking for a cheaper everyday watch, look no further - it may have a couple of minor niggles (the non-hacking movement for one), but it makes up for this with oodles of character and usefulness. Throw away your quartz watches, and embrace the Monster!

Saturday 1 May 2010

Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 Review

It's been a long time coming, but here's a new blog post! Time for a new review, and it's a horological legend: the GMT Master II 16710, a long time stalwart of the Rolex range until it was killed off in favour of the new 116710 GMT IIc. The GMT has always been a fan favourite, and, having a pristine example to hand, thought it was time to review this truly beautiful watch. The model reviewed had the "Pepsi" red and blue bezel fitted, and was on the Oyster bracelet, with sports clasp.



Technical Features

*Model ref. 16710
*Stainless steel case
*Bidirectional 24hr bezel, with choice of blue/red, red/black and black anodised aluminium inserts
*Case Diameter: 40mm
*Black sports dial with luminous (Superluminova) dot and baton markers w/ white gold surrounds
*Twinlock crown with crown guards
*Sapphire crystal with cyclops-magnified date
*24 hr. hand
*Independent hour hand - allows up to three time zones to be displayed concurrently
*Oyster Bracelet

The Movement

*Calibre 3185
*28.8k BPH
*Approx. 48 hour power reserve
*Self winding chronometer rated movement
*Semi-quickset date (done through independent hour hand)
*Nivarox hairspring

UK RRP: Discontinued. 2nd hand value of model posted: £2950.

The Aesthetics

That blue and red bezel combination makes this one of the most easily recognised Rolex models out there - it just screams "GMT." This might be too colourful for some, but I personally love it - practical, and iconic. If blue and red is too much, the other bezel inserts would certainly make it more understated. The numerals on the bezel are a little more subtle than on the GMT IIc, and I think it generally helps make the watch seem more rough and ready - a bona fide tool watch, as opposed to the "useful dress watch" appearance of the GMT IIc.

The brushed bracelet does help with this impression as well, and is classic Rolex sports watch through and through. The dial is clean and readable, even without the "maxi dial" of newer sports models. The red 24 hour hand contrasts nicely with the dial, and as such, is a very easy watch to read at a glance. My only criticism when it comes to looks is the small size of the twinlock crown - it doesn't quite look right on the case, and it is particularly fiddly to operate. Rolex addressed this problem by issuing the GMT IIc with the slightly larger Triplock. All in all, it looks great, and has aged very nicely - I certainly don't feel that it looks like a 20 year old watch, even though it first hit production lines that long ago.

The Feel

On this point, I feel I have to be a bit more critical of the GMT II. Whilst it might look fresh, it certainly feels like a 20 year old watch, much like the other Rolex models that have forgone updates for the time being. The bracelet is very light and rattly, even with solid end links. The clasp is functional, but doesn't inspire confidence - a very thin pressed metal clasp. Whilst purists will quickly point out that it's served the test of time (and they're spot on), I can't help but feel that the clasp seems cheaper than the one on my £150 Seiko Monster. It's not fitting of a watch of this reputation, and isn't a patch on the new clasps that Rolex have brought out. If you can afford it, a new Super Jubilee bracelet would be an excellent choice - it would completely transform the watch. Apart from that, it sits nice and closely to the wrist, and the micro-adjustments on the clasp mean you can get it to fit just right. I do realise this section is highly subjective, and for many people, the light bracelet and clasp won't be an issue: however, for me, if I was spending that kind of money on a watch, I'd want it to feel premium in every aspect.





Practicality

Well, what can I say? The GMT has always been Rolex's most practical watch, and this one is no exception. The perfect companion to any traveller, the three time zone feature has made it a long time favourite of commercial pilots. The low profile of the watch makes it a great everyday watch, and I think it looks great with just about anything. The watch is also a real chameleon - get all three inserts, a Jubilee bracelet, and a leather/NATO band, and you've got 9 different looks. Even Panerais aren't that versatile. I think this is probably the watch's strongest point, and makes it particularly unique. Having a brushed Oyster is always beneficial too, it certainy masks the scratches far better than models with polished centre links.



Conclusion

I do like this watch - the history, the looks, the practicality. However, that bracelet keeps holding me back, the one niggling issue, the fatal flaw. If this was on the new GMT's bracelet, I'd have it in a heartbeat. I think I have to come to a similar conclusion to my review of the 16610 - a great 20th Century watch, but feels out of place in the 21st century.

Thanks for reading,

The GMT Master